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Sparr Heights' Gourmet Ghetto - The Ghetto Spreads
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Contributed by:
Miriam Johnston
on 5/9/2008
Six years ago, a European-style food renaissance began along a stretch of Verdugo Boulevard in Sparr Heights with the opening of Bistro Verdu. While its Chef Michael Ruiz may have begun the gastronomic movement, an innovative neighbor has taken the next logical step.
Rosso Wine Shop, co-owned by Jeff Zimmitti and his partner Lisa DeFazio, opened in May 2006. The concept behind it was unique for the area. "The idea of the shop is to try as many wines as possible, to have as much sourcing to bring in a wide array of (the type) I focus on...food-friendly, good everyday table wines that are more interesting than supermarket wines." He currently stocks about 300 different labels, but hopes to double that amount soon with a new rack system. The store also carries a small selection of gourmet products like vinegars and vineyard grown olive oils, primarily for creating gift baskets.
Unlike the wine section in most markets or liquor stores, entering Rosso may give the impression of a pricy boutique with its high-tech lighting, wine region posters on the wall, and neat rows of bottles stored horizontally in wooden racks. Not so. The emphasis isn't on famous labels whose snob appeal is as stratospheric as its price. Instead, most sell for what Zimmetti calls "the everyday price point, ten to thirty dollar range", about what you'd pay for a bottle in the supermarket. However, you won't find the same mass-marketed brands here. He estimates that three quarters of the product in his shop comes from France, Italy and Spain, with some domestic wines in the mix. "Even with the declining dollar and other obstacles, I still find better values in Europe."
Zimmetti describes his decision to enter the wine business as "a cumulative thing". With his Italian parents and a few uncles who produced what he affectionately calls "garage wine", it was part of his culture while growing up. "In the early nineties I got more serious." He took some wine appreciation classes, including a six month program at Epicurean in Los Angeles, but admits he's largely self-taught. "While scouting around the area for a business location, I shopped in every wine store I could find."
A turning point came in 2003, when Bistro Verdu Chef Michael Ruiz hired Zimmetti as a consultant to establish the restaurant's wine list. "I toyed with the idea of entering the food industry...I worked for eight months with Michael. That's when the restaurant expanded into the space where the (wine) shop is now located." When Ruiz had to give up the new space due to permit issues, "that's when the idea came for the wine shop. I wanted to be near, or next to, a restaurant." Zimmetti imagined a place where customers could come in not just to shop, but to enjoy a glass of wine before or after dinner. He acknowledges "the perfect situation fell into my lap."
Having a high end restaurant next door helped introduce Zimmetti's shop to like-minded customers. However, Bistro Verdu closed less than a year after Rosso opened. "I was a bit apprehensive in the beginning," he notes. Six months ago, Bashan Restaurant opened next door, and the proximity has benefited them both.
When asked if he tastes all the wines, Zimmetti admits, "I do, ninety eight to ninety nine percent of the time, and if not, I'm getting a great offer for a pre-buy." Then he goes by his knowledge of other vintages, or researches the product in wine journals.
For his customers, that means there's no need for guesswork when it comes to selecting a bottle to enjoy. Every Friday and Saturday evening between five and eight, the shop opens their wine bar for tastings. Each week, Zimmetti picks three wines and charges a modest ten dollar tasting fee to try them. The mood is convivial. Patrons often strike up friendly conversations with each other and share their opinions of the selections as they nibble on snacks Zimmetti offers to accompany the wines. You can also ask him for recommendations based on what you'll be eating and what you like to drink.
Zimmetti's attitude is as balanced as his wines. He can discuss the merits of his products with informed seriousness, but his humor is on display as well. Over the wine bar, a shelf holds empty bottles of fine Champagne, Burgundy, Barolo, and one bottle from a company familiarly known as "two buck Chuck".
Rosso Wine Shop, 34359½ N. Verdugo Road; www.rossowineshop.com
While both Ingredients and Rosso have emphasized quality products at relatively modest prices, one recent entry to the Gourmet Ghetto is challenging that notion. Tomorrow, meet the owners of a restaurant who are breaking new ground in the local restaurant scene.
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CONTRIBUTOR INFORMATION
Miriam Johnston
Glendale
, CA
Miriam Johnston has posted
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