For those of us not lucky enough to grow up in an Italian family, Nardone's Gourmet Italian Deli & Caterer is the next best thing. The tantalizing smell of garlic and tomatoes first hits you in the parking lot. Inside, the venue has all the elements of a comfortable neighborhood haunt: black and white tile floors, glass cases bursting with fresh meats, cheeses, and homemade desserts, plus a market area featuring colorful packages of pasta, olive oil and tomatoes from Italy.

"What you see in the store is what we use in our food," said John Nardone, proud patriarch and owner. "We have piccatas, marsalas, homemade manicotti, escarole and beans, fagioli, just like on the east coast."

The New Jersey native and former loan agent opened Nardone's in 2005 as a business to eventually pass down to sons Joe, John, Jr. and Rudy. "It gives us all a chance to grow together. I figure I'll give it two or three years, then head to the pool with a martini," Nardone said.

Joe, who's currently attending Le Cordon Bleu Culinary School in Pasadena, mans the kitchen, recreating the tastes he recalls from growing up around his grandma's kitchen . His father says he's a natural. "Growing up, Joe always had the most amazing taste buds. He'd be the first one to say, there's too much oregano in there...and he'd always be right," Nardone said.

Many of Nardone's dishes, such as a luscious penne vodka ($8.95) or hearty eggplant rollatini rich with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, include an incredibly flavorful pomodoro sauce. The vibrant red base begins with imported Cento tomatoes, the rest remains a closely guarded secret.

Nardone's offers three different kinds of calzones (spinach, pepperoni or meatball with a side of the tasty pomodoro, as well as Joe's Special, a unique 12" loaf of pepperoni, mozzarella, and red pepper relish. Served on La Brea Bakery bread, hot and cold sandwiches include deli standbys like roast beef ($6.95) and chicken or tuna salad, traditional Italian subs with sausage and peppers, and original creations like the Giovanni's (genoa salami, sopressata, capacola and provolone with pepperoni, roasted peppers, and balsamic vinegar).

Nardones' even has a patented menu item: John's "Fowl Balls," enormous spheres of ground turkey and chicken with pignoli nuts and raisins. Braised in pomodoro sauce, the baked meatballs are a healthy alternative to their traditionally fried counterparts.

The restaurant life comes easily to Nardone, who used to host impromptu dinner parties for neighbors and workers. "We must have had 1,000 people over for Sunday dinner. People have been telling me to open my own place for years," he said.

The casual bistro-like setting at Nardone's accommodates up to 30 diners, though most of the business is take out, delivery, and catering. Patrons can select from a wide selection of beer, including Italian favorites like Moretti's and Perroni, as well as wine to accompany their meals..

Nardone's Gourmet Italian Deli & Caterer is located at 23367 Lyons Avenue, Valencia. 286-1011. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.